RazeTheWorld Forum » RazeTheWorld » General Discussion

1. Vortex

   master
   Joined: Jan '11
   Posts: 1,318

   Hey guys, I'm thinking that I might liquid cool my cpu, and I could use a little bit of help. I already have the block, pump, radiator, and fittings figured out, but I need some suggestions when it comes to tubing and a reservoir. Do any of you guys know of some nice looking UV blue tubing? I also want to get a nice looking, cheap reservoir, but I'm not sure if I want it on display or not because I'm going to be using distilled water. What do you guys think? I'm open to suggestions.

   Here are some of the parts that I've already decided on:

   Swiftech Apogee HD
   http://www.swiftech.com/apogeehd.aspx?variation=257

   Swiftech MCP655
   http://www.swiftech.com/mcp655.aspx

   Black Ice GTX 360
   http://www.jab-tech.com/Black-Ice-GTX-360-Radiator-pr-3613.html

   Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings
   http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14929/ex-tub-1103/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Matte_Black_FCC-1234-6P-MB.html

   If you have any suggestions either about the questions I've asked or when it comes to the parts I've already picked out, I would greatly appreciate the help.

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
2. Boov

   master
   Joined: Dec '10
   Posts: 1,091

   I did a lot of research on watercooling at one point, although I never actually got round to buying it.
   Firstly, are you going to buy a top for the pump? The MCP665 can only use 1/2 inch tubing, that shouldn't be a problem though, if you have the right fittings for all your other parts.

   As for tubing, I really don't think there's a quality difference between them all. Any 1/2 ID tubing should do, some people use 7\16 inch tubing on 1/2" fittings for a tighter fit.

   Res is kind of down to you. Doesn't really affect performance, they only really differ in looks. I THINK something like this would be good for your build:

   http://www.scan.co.uk/products/xspc-acrylic-dual-525-reservoir-for-one-laing-ddc?utm_source=google+shopping&utm_medium=google+shopping

   Again, I'm not all that clued up about watercooling, Jason is probably the one to ask.
   Watercooling is more complicated that it seems. Your other parts look sweet though :D

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
3. Vortex

   master
   Joined: Jan '11
   Posts: 1,318

   I didn't know you could buy a top for a pump. I'm going to be using 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD tubing though, so I don't think I'll need a top.

   When it comes to the tubing, I know what size I want and everything, but I really want to find some nice blue UV reactive tubing that actually glows when you put a black light to it. I guess I could always just buy a bunch of different tubing and see which one in the most vibrant since it's cheap, but if anyone has any experience with some nice UV reactive tubing then I would like to know.

   I guess my main issue with the reservoir is that I can't use a 5.25" bay reservoir because all of my 5.25" bays are filled up right now. Although...now that I look at my HAF X, I might just be able to remove the hot swap bays in order to make room.

   Oh and btw, the compression fittings also come in different colors. What do you think would look best with blue UV tubing? Chrome, black, or blue?

   Here are the blue ones. If you click on the pictures you can see both a blue and a chrome one being installed on a radiator.

   http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14934/ex-tub-1109/Monsoon_Free_Center_Compression_Fitting_-_12ID_x_34OD_-_Modders_6_Pack_Blue_FCC-1234-6P-BL.html

   If you want to see what the black ones look like then just click the link in the first post in this thread. I'm actually starting to lean towards the blue now that I've seen what it looks like. I think it would look nice with my blue and black theme I have going on with all my components. What do you guys think though?

   Also, should I use UV reactive coolant instead of UV reactive tubing? I'm just not sure about the coolant because I've heard it doesn't cool as well as distilled water and can get clogged in water loops.

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
4. Vortex

   master
   Joined: Jan '11
   Posts: 1,318

   So I'm thinking about this reservoir:
   http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/reservoirs-and-acc/reservoirs/ek-bay-spin/ek-bay-spin-reservoir-acetal.html

   I am a little bit worried that this reservoir might cause air to get into the loop though because it has a waterfall effect that creates a lot of bubbles like in this video:
   

   Get the Video Plugins

   Although the pump is hooked up directly to the reservoir with nothing else in the loop in that video. When the full loop is hooked up to it I'm thinking it will have less bubbles like in this video:
   

   Get the Video Plugins

   However, there are bubbles either way. Do you guys think that would cause air bubbles to get into my loop?

   In some other videos I've seen, it looks like there are no bubbles at all though...

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
5. patrick

   neophyte
   Joined: Sep '11
   Posts: 46

   Dude are you spending $500 on a water cooler?

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
6. Logan

   ninja master
   Joined: Sep '10
   Posts: 747

   testing

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
7. Vortex

   master
   Joined: Jan '11
   Posts: 1,318

   patrick said:
   Dude are you spending $500 on a water cooler?

   It's probably going to be around $400. I really don't want to go any higher than that. If I can spend less without sacrificing performance then I will. I'm not getting this all right away either, but I do have some money saved up. I spent a good chunk of that inheritance I got on my new build, but I have most of the money in the stock market right now. I've made about $800 on the stock market since November.

   I want to water cool my cpu because I decided that my H100 isn't cooling as well as I'd like it to. I get around 75C at full load on a 2600K @4.8Ghz. I'd like that temperature to go down.

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
8. AKIMbO

   mod
   Joined: May '09
   Posts: 791

   Don't worry about the bayspin res. I have one that I'm using in my loop right now. It doesn't cause a lot of bubbles and those it does cause don't get sucked back into the pump and cause cavitation.

   The one thing you have be cautious about is when you hook up the tubing to the res. Remember that the outflow from the pump (ie. the water coming into the res) goes into the outlet where the propeller on the res is. The inflow to the pump (ie. the water coming out of the res and into the pump) is any outlet besides the propeller one. It sounds sophomoric, but if you hook it up wrong then fill your loop up and start to bleed the air out you will come to realize oh shit my loop isn't circulating water. Then you will look at the pump and go...FFFUUUCCKKK...and have to drain the loop, retube the res and refill.

   For LEDS, if that OCN post was you, just get a clear acrylic plug that has a drilled out core for 5mm LEDS. Forget about UV leds...those things wont light up your coolant at all. White will be crazy bright as will red, blue, or green. The led light won't be nice and defused like a CCFL tube though. It will be like 2 fucking bright ass headlights coming out of your reservoir...so dont stare directly at it unless you want to turn into Stevie Wonder.

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
9. Vortex

   master
   Joined: Jan '11
   Posts: 1,318

   Yeah, that was me on OCN. I think I might just take your advice and go with the FrozenQ double helix reservoir. It's going to make things more expensive, but things tend to get that way when you're picky about your computer and want to get things done right the first time.

   Btw, anyone know where to get Tygon 2001 tubing on the cheap? That shit is kind of expensive.

   | Posted 3 months ago | post link
10. AKIMbO

    mod
    Joined: May '09
    Posts: 791

    Vortex said:
    Yeah, that was me on OCN. I think I might just take your advice and go with the FrozenQ double helix reservoir. It's going to make things more expensive, but things tend to get that way when you're picky about your computer and want to get things done right the first time.

    Btw, anyone know where to get Tygon 2001 tubing on the cheap? That shit is kind of expensive.

    Fuck Tygon. Shit clouds up in a week's time. Primochill Pro LRT tubing is what I use. It's comparable to Tygon. When I'm hella poor I use tubing from Home Depot. It's around $5 for 15 feet (clear in color) but sucks ass...incredibly hard to work with, bend radius is atrocious too.

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
11. Vortex

    master
    Joined: Jan '11
    Posts: 1,318

    AKIMbO said:
    Fuck Tygon. Shit clouds up in a week's time. Primochill Pro LRT tubing is what I use. It's comparable to Tygon. When I'm hella poor I use tubing from Home Depot. It's around $5 for 15 feet (clear in color) but sucks ass...incredibly hard to work with, bend radius is atrocious too.

    See...this is where I get confused. I have some people telling me that Primochill is shit and clouds all the time and to use Tygon instead, and I have others telling me the exact opposite. Supposedly the Tygon 2001 is plasticizer free which means that it's not supposed to cloud up.

    You've never had clouding with Primochill? Also, what coolant and biocide are you using?

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
12. AKIMbO

    mod
    Joined: May '09
    Posts: 791

    Vortex said:
    See...this is where I get confused. I have some people telling me that Primochill is shit and clouds all the time and to use Tygon instead, and I have others telling me the exact opposite. Supposedly the Tygon 2001 is plasticizer free which means that it's not supposed to cloud up.

    You've never had clouding with Primochill? Also, what coolant and biocide are you using?

    The Primochill clouds up but it takes a few weeks to do so. I dont know if I've ever used Tygon 2001...there's a lot of different Tygon models. I have no clue if the Tygon I used had plasticizer or not.

    For coolant, I use distilled water and PT Nuke PHN. When I want dyed coolant I mix my own. Automotive leak detection fluid (I have UV Green and clear/UV blue dyes)mixed with distilled water and some PT Nuke (blue variety).

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
13. AKIMbO

    mod
    Joined: May '09
    Posts: 791

    Vortex said:
    See...this is where I get confused. I have some people telling me that Primochill is shit and clouds all the time and to use Tygon instead, and I have others telling me the exact opposite. Supposedly the Tygon 2001 is plasticizer free which means that it's not supposed to cloud up.

    You've never had clouding with Primochill? Also, what coolant and biocide are you using?

    The Primochill clouds up but it takes a few weeks to do so. I dont know if I've ever used Tygon 2001...there's a lot of different Tygon models. I have no clue if the Tygon I used had plasticizer or not.

    For coolant, I use distilled water and PT Nuke PHN. When I want dyed coolant I mix my own. Automotive leak detection fluid (I have UV Green and clear/UV blue dyes)mixed with distilled water and some PT Nuke (blue variety).

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
14. Vortex

    master
    Joined: Jan '11
    Posts: 1,318

    AKIMbO said:
    The Primochill clouds up but it takes a few weeks to do so. I dont know if I've ever used Tygon 2001...there's a lot of different Tygon models. I have no clue if the Tygon I used had plasticizer or not.

    For coolant, I use distilled water and PT Nuke PHN. When I want dyed coolant I mix my own. Automotive leak detection fluid (I have UV Green and clear/UV blue dyes)mixed with distilled water and some PT Nuke (blue variety).

    Is there any way to prevent clouding?

    And if I were to use this dye with distilled water would I still used PT Nuke?
    http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/mayhem-s-dye/24-10ml-mayhems-dye-uv-clear-blue.html

    I've heard PT Nuke can cause corrosion or nasty gunk build-up. Is that true?

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
15. Vortex

    master
    Joined: Jan '11
    Posts: 1,318

    I'm starting to think that maybe I should just get some UV tubing instead of using the dye.

    That primochill tubing you suggested is anti-microbial, which means that I should be able to run distilled water without additives like PT Nuke right?

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
16. AKIMbO

    mod
    Joined: May '09
    Posts: 791

    Vortex said:
    Is there any way to prevent clouding?

    And if I were to use this dye with distilled water would I still used PT Nuke?
    http://www.mayhems.co.uk/shop/mayhem-s-dye/24-10ml-mayhems-dye-uv-clear-blue.html

    I've heard PT Nuke can cause corrosion or nasty gunk build-up. Is that true?

    That's 100% bullshit perpetrated by Eddy at EK blaming everyone but himself for his shit nickel plating. When the nickel stared flaking off of his gpu and cpu blocks he looked for someone/something to blame...and he blamed PT Nuke.

    PT Nuke is safe to use in your loop. I've used PT Nuke exclusively for the past few years with no ill effects. If you are going to be running dye make sure to get the blue PT Nuke. If you are running straight distilled water make sure to use PT Nuke PHN (the clear PT Nuke).

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
17. Vortex

    master
    Joined: Jan '11
    Posts: 1,318

    So I've decided that these are the parts I'm going to get. What do you guys think?

    CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm
    Pump: Swiftech MCP655 and pump top for reservoir
    Res: FrozenQ dual bay double helix reservoir
    Rad: Black Ice GTX 360
    Fans: 6x Cooler Master Sickleflow with blue LED lights
    Fittings: Blue Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings
    Anti-microbial: PT Nuke PHN
    Coolant: Distilled Water
    Tubing: Feser UV Blue
    Lighting: 2 or 3 UV Cold Cathodes

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
18. AKIMbO

    mod
    Joined: May '09
    Posts: 791

    Vortex said:
    So I've decided that these are the parts I'm going to get. What do you guys think?

    CPU Block: XSPC Raystorm
    Pump: Swiftech MCP655 and pump top for reservoir
    Res: FrozenQ dual bay double helix reservoir
    Rad: Black Ice GTX 360
    Fans: 6x Cooler Master Sickleflow with blue LED lights
    Fittings: Blue Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings
    Anti-microbial: PT Nuke PHN
    Coolant: Distilled Water
    Tubing: Feser UV Blue
    Lighting: 2 or 3 UV Cold Cathodes

    Sounds good but I'd get UV LED light bars (basically LEDs inside the cathode shell) for case lighting. UV led light bars give off a shit ton of UV light...plus they run off molex connectors. Make sure the ID/OD of the tubing matches the ID/OD of the compression fitting EXACTLY. If you are feeling extra DIYish, you can order UV LED strips (not light bars) from Oznium.com and rig up the wiring yourself (Juggalo/Jason has a video on YT about it)...his UV lighting was hella intense too.

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
19. Vortex

    master
    Joined: Jan '11
    Posts: 1,318

    the light bars are brighter than the cathodes? Do you have a link?

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link
20. AKIMbO

    mod
    Joined: May '09
    Posts: 791

    Vortex said:
    the light bars are brighter than the cathodes? Do you have a link?

    Been awol because of a mad 3 day study rampage. Here's the link http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_107_835&products_id=26211

    | Posted 3 months ago | post link

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